Sayonara, Japan.
My blog starts at the end. Most people who come to Japan start their blog when they first get here. They have so many new experiences. Bikkuri! Culture shock. Strange customs; Food that wiggles and jiggles; a tsp. of new friends; a half-full cup of new discoveries; a peppering of tragedies, and a dash of departure.
This is the recipe for coming home.
Last night I gazed up at the moonless, clear, dark sky; It was filled with stars that I am sure that I had never before seen. The milky way -and red stars, blinking lights in the sky! Not since my journey up to North Fork and Yosemite post-graduation and post-meditation retreat excursion with the hippie girls had I seen them so clearly. It was my last night in Higashimuro-gun, Wakayama-ken. All I felt was gratitude, and joy. The goodbye prepared by my final school made my heart fill with warmth and happiness. All of the children, grades 1-5, prepared a goodbye event, comprised of 2 hours of English-theme games and activities in the gym.
In three short months, I have had to said goodbye to my job, to my home, to many of my possessions, to friends, a bit of my sanity, and then to my first love. Most people will see that last part as the salt in one's wounds. I admit it. I felt the usual things; At first: Denial. Then, Betrayed, Depressed, filled with Rage, and now... peaceful. Though recent months have been probably the most bitter for me in many respects; I felt only joy as I gazed out the window into the starry night. Pure happiness and a wholeness that I haven't felt in months: I am going home. Once again, I cherished my time and life in Japan. I thanked God and the stars for my life. A smile came across my face and I shut the doors to sleep my last night in the south of the ken.
At sunrise, my travels started. In good spirits, I crawled out of my futon, slid open the shoji doors, and looked out into the pink-tinged mizu-iro and gray sky touch the ocean and Hashigui rocks. I sat on the coarse tatami, resting my back against the wooden border of the shoji door and smiled, letting the sunlight turn the insides of my lashes reddish as the moisture escaped and ran down my cheeks. I then headed down to bathe in the onsen one last time. There wasn't a soul in sight; who else would get up for sunrise onsen? There is nothing so nice as having a Japanese onsen all to yourself... I got to prance about naked and watch the sun reach higher into the sky.
Once I started to prune, I reluctantly got dressed and had some breakfast. With a last Itadakimasu!, I heartily ate salad with fresh daikon and lotus root, salmon, rice with umeboshi (pickled plum), scrambled eggs, and japan-style breakfast potatoes with mayonaise. Of course I took pictures of the food, as is my usual habit.
Afterward, I met a kind lady who was married to a Brazillian who offered to give me a ride to the station. Together we set out, laughing and talking about her life and how she moves bewteen homes in Brazil and Kozagawa. She even bought me a quick omiyage. I wished that I had something to give her, too, so bought her a tea at the station from one of the machines. We sat and drank the tea, saying the polite goodbyes of strangers. Just as she left, one of my principals came to the station to see me off as a surprise. He gave me a beautifully-wrap gift from his wife, a school nurse that I once worked with. I rode the train with a bunch of really ancient, stooped over old ladies and some high school students who I presumed were ditching out of school to go shopping in Tanabe.
I hopped from the train to my bus, on which I tried my best not to fall asleep. From start to finish Part I of my travels today took just over four hours. Tonight is gonna be a killa, with my plan to ride the overnight bus to Tokyo, departing at 1am arriving at my hostel around 7am.
Upon arrival in Osaka Namba OCAT, I found a large locker for my bags and strolled about the city walk and Shinsaibashi. After picking up my brand new ipod and refurbished "new" computer (both basically replaced my broken ones, free of charge. Bless your store, mr. Jobbs), I visited my favorite Lolita shops in Osaka, even finding a couple of new ones. I usually am too shy to ask the shop girls to let me dare to try on the expensive silk dresses and lolita fare, but seeing as this was my last day, I went for it. >.<
I searched in vain for the mythical Sasebo burger (massive burgers with fried eggs and ham, apparently) restaurant, so instead grabbed a quick 200 yen cheeseburger at McDonalds, scarfed it down, and then continued on my lolita store hunt. ;) I tried on dresses at Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Metamorphose Temps du Feulles, and Atelier Pierrot. I purchased a couple of Gloomy Bear plush pieces and meandered though the gothic and punk district to gaze at some of the more odd fashions that many young Japanese are donning in the city.
Now, if you are not familiar with Gloomy Bear, I present to you a synopsis:
Enter story mode:
The story begins with a lonely little boy who meets a bear and raises it as his own. He loves him; he cuddles him. But one day, the bear eats the little boy. The end.
It is brutal, sad, gruesome, and a little -well, stupid in its simplicity. But it is the irony of teddy bear concept that makes it so much fun! The nature of a bear is not something to be snuggled like a puppy. The artist of gloomy bear was a man from Osaka who sketched this grotesque bear on a napkin. Yes, it is a cartoonish figure depicting violence with sharp claws and blood stains embroidered beautifully into the plushie merchandise. But, that is often the flavor of Japanese animation. It is not always geared at children or for kosher subject matter. Liket the works of Andy Warhol or other post modern artists that use graphics and sometimes even comics themselves to relay more adult themes and storylines. Who knew that his whimsical design would become such a phenomena? I bought a small coin purse and cell phone screen cleaner charms to give as gifts, but god knows to whom. I am sure that my friends back home would not like that sort of macabre gift. I am not so sure why I am fascinated with such dark things.
I didn't actually buy anything at those shops since they are ridiculously priced. But, a girl can dream. I headed over to Bodyline (the budget lolita shop) and purchased a cute pair of white Mary Janes, a petticoat, some mini hats for Lia, and some costume necklaces for my sister and niece that were only 500 yen. Feeling pretty good about my bargain hunting, I set off to ease my growling tummy. Demanding food and sweets (from all the sweet clothing I saw today, I wager), I then off to my favourite haunt, the Tables Cafe in the Cross Hotel building. They have the most delicious blueberries and cream pancackes, and a lavendar cheese cupcake and earl gray pot tea service that reminds me of Westwood and UCLA study days.
The perfect ending to a lovely last day in Kansai. Now I wait a bit before taking a night bus from Osaka to Tokyo.
Tomorrow: Hello, Tokyo Gothic Wonderland, Vampire Cafe if I can find it, frolicing a la lolita in Harajuku, and Tomato and Fabric town!!! Goodbye Kansai, oyasuminasai!
You say yes, I say no.
You say stop and I say go go go, oh no.
You say goodbye and I say hello
Hello hello
I don't know why you say goodbye, I say hello
Hello hello
I don't know why you say goodbye, I say hello
I say high, you say low
You say why and I say I don't know, oh no
You say goodbye and I say hello
(Hello Goodbye Hello Goodbye) hello hello
(Hello Goodbye) I don't know why you say goodbye, I say hello
(Hello Goodbye Hello Goodbye) hello hello
(Hello Goodbye) I don't know why you say goodbye
(Hello Goodbye) I say hello
...
